Population: 66,123

Day 10
Kanazawa, Tsuruga, and my final station, 21,174 steps, 17.5 kilometers

I made an executive decision to add one extra stop on my way today. How spontaneous! Adventurous!

Hello from Tsuruga!

A tiny port town, surrounded by mountains from three sides and bay from the fourth.

The moment I stepped off the train I knew something was different. The air was crisp, breezy — and the wind was carrying the smell of the sea, fish, and… cement? Right… the cement factory.

Tsuruga is another town I learned about from the Tiny Barber, Post Office newsletter. And when I looked at the map yesterday — there it was, on the way to my final city.

The plan crystallized. And it included lunch and a short hike.

When I arrived at Dontoya, the benches around the shop were full of hungry people waiting for their turn. I claimed my place in line and waited patiently with others.

Patience was very much required. Time from getting the ticket to sinking my teeth in crispy batter: 69 minutes (nice!) Long! — but was it worth it?

Hell yeah! Behold — this thing of beauty: Akitendon!

Aki — autumn. Tendon — assorted tempura on top of a bowl of rice. Seasonal special — how could I not. Full of autumn vegetables, mushroom, and fish. The bowl was so packed, that they included additional small plate so you can put some items aside while you enjoy your tempura with rice.

Satisfaction from the meal to time waited ratio: off the charts. It was spectacular.

Next up: a hike up the hill overlooking the bay and the cement factory. You reach the observation point and learn everything you need to know about why the air smells the way it does here.

One more hour on the train, and here I am. The last city. The final stop. The end of this nearly two week long trip.

I finish the day in an izakaya. Quite difficult to find and a good distance away from the congested tourist routes. Enjoying multiple advantages of my choice this evening: no queue, quaint, homey atmosphere, great food.

Nobilitas is run by a couple, a husband and A wife. Clear division of duties — the husband cooks, and the wife takes the orders and manages the money.

Those two have great chemistry — laughing off each other jokes (I don’t understand the jokes, but I understand the laughs), exchanging meaningful looks — seems like they're having fun?

Since it’s a family-run shop, smoking inside is allowed. I don’t linger. I settle the bill as soon as I finish the food. And before my clothes absorb the cigarette smoke’s smell.

Tomorrow I start exploring this city for real. Setting my alarm for very early morning right now.

Good night!

— Chris