Nov 1, 2022 5 min read season one

The One Last Pizza Toast

Day 13
Kyoto, Hong Kong, 13,297 steps, 10.9 kilometers

Programming note: In my last entry I had anticipated that this one is going to be shorter. Instead, it’s regular-length, but late. I hope that’s okay?

I search Google Maps for 喫茶店 one last time. Doing that around 7:30 am with “open now” filter applied should get me the result I want (I’ve noticed coffee chains and third-wave coffee shops here usually don’t open until 9-11-ish am).

And there it is! Coffee Amazon, about a 20-minute walk from the hotel. And it has pizza toast on the menu. Jackpot!

I walk through the drizzle, covering my camera from the rain with my jacket (give me better weather sealing, Leica!) — I take it out only to take pictures of people carrying transparent umbrellas. I want to catch that signature (cliche?) Japan picture. I mostly fail — my rangefinder focusing skills are still no match for moving subjects (partly because lack of skill, partly because I stubbornly insist to shoot at wide apertures). I settle for static objects instead.

Running on fumes

While walking to Coffee Amazon I realize I’ve passed the 250-kilometer mark on my way. Well, less realize — more like I'm counting down the meters. 250 clicks — no small feat.

And I can tell. The body is exhausted, but I feel good! “Few things feel better than the body [many] days into a good long walk.”

It’s weird, though. The legs are tired, but they want to keep moving.

I arrive, get my usual morning set, and chat a bit with the lady running the establishment.

It’s been two weeks. And this is my last kissaten, last pizza toast in Japan. I linger more than usual, just to cherish that moment.

When I eventually leave, the lady bids me farewell saying “Be careful in Hong Kong.” Feels sad.

Lunch makes me walk even more. I want to end my stay in Kyoto on a high note. Like, with a meal that leaves a lasting impression (of a good kind). Omakase sushi is my choice.

At the first restaurant I visit, they say they’re not open for lunch today and they will only be serving dinner. (Google Maps and their website say they’re open for lunch. Whatever.)

The second restaurant says they only accept guests with reservations. Heck, was I aiming too high? — should I settle for a more down-to-earth meal? Why is this so hard?

The rain is getting worse. Giving it one last try.

Third restaurant. Sushiiwa. I’m greeted with a question “Reservation?”. “No.” I say resigned — but they don’t send me away right away. “Wait a moment.”

“You’re lucky. Please sit at the counter.”

Reader, what happened next was my best restaurant experience in Kyoto.

Toshiya-san introduces himself as the chef and owner. He speaks perfect English. He notices my camera and recommends I visit the Leica Store in Gion — apparently, apart from the cameras, they have a great photo exhibition there. (Too bad I won’t have time for that today.)

The man exudes warmth. He’s so welcoming and very chatty. Over the next hour, he stops at my seat multiple times — not just to serve the food, but to continue our conversation.

We talk about his business. Third generation running it. Started by his father 65 years ago just a few blocks from where we are now. Today, Toshiya-san owns it, and his daughter is working there as well.

The last three years have been tough. Business went down 70% — Japan was closed to tourists. He said the restaurant was only able to survive because he owns the building. Whole family lives upstairs. Had he had to pay rent to a landlord, he would’ve gone bust for sure. Many other restaurants in the area have.

But October 11th, 2022 was like flipping a switch. Everything is suddenly back in full force. Floodgates are open, tourists are pouring in. He’s fully booked on most days (he reiterates how lucky I am to be able to get a walk-in seat today). It’s bit of a shock for him and the staff to have to adjust to being this busy again.

Food comes at a steady pace. A few appetizers, fantastic sashimi!, soup, and eight pieces of sushi served one by one. He brings my attention to the soy sauce. “This is Kyoto-style soy sauce, different from Tokyo-style” — he says — “Less salty, milder, and sweeter.” I learned something new today.

Smile’s not leaving my face throughout the entire meal. So happy I found this place! Being turned out by the first two restaurants today was no bad luck at all. On the contrary! It allowed me to discover this establishment.

Thoroughly enjoyed the food, the welcoming atmosphere, and the chat. Sushiiwa — I highly recommend it! Please check it out if you’re ever in the Kyoto Station area. (You might need to make a reservation!)

Speaking of Kyoto Station — that’s where I go next.

Tadaima!

From here, it’s all just the way home. I board the Hello Kitty-themed train to the airport. I get on a KIX-HKG flight. Gets uncomfortably bumpy in the last hour — we’re flying through a typhoon that’s over Hong Kong right now.

Inbound passenger processing at Hong Kong International Airport is surprisingly smooth — it took about 40 minutes from disembarking the plane to getting on AirPort Express. So much better than 4+ hours I had to endure on my way back from Poland last year (not to mention the lack of hotel quarantine this time around).