Banged Up

Day 5
Matsumoto, Nagano, Karuizawa, 23,138 steps, 19.2 kilometers

Monday. Eventful day! 3 cities, 3 coffees, 2 matcha teas. Phone dropped on the pavement (it’s fine), Leica earning its first battle scars (it’s also fine), and the masseuse saying after the treatment “yes, your legs are very tired” (yup, I’m exhausted — and it’s not just legs).

Kissa by kissa

I had to go back. One last visit before getting on the train to the next city. Coffee Abe. This time, I ordered their apparent specialty (I saw everyone ordering it last time) — a scoop of mocha ice cream on top of iced coffee (mind you, it was 7 degrees Celsius this morning in Matsumoto). Served in a chalice — because why not.

I love the attitude of this kissa. We will dress up, serve some crazy stuff, and let people have a good kissa time.

Fast forward to the next city. In Nagano I visited another kissa. An absolutely tiny little store with just one elderly lady behind the counter. Homey atmosphere.

Ordered cake-u set-to — no lunch this afternoon, just treats. Tart-like cheesecake — delicious. American coffee — also not bad!

A nice, quiet spot to catch my breath before dodging the rain, hopping on another train, and getting to the third city of the day.

Autumn menu

When I saw the sign “Karuizawa Chocolate Factory” I immediately knew I will like this town.

But that was just a quick stop on an one-hour-and-twenty-minutes-give-or-take walk to Hoshinoya Karuizawa — an onsen resort I’m staying at for another two nights.

In the menu for tonight: spa treatment, kaiseki dinner, and something called meditation bath.

Everything’s beating my expectations so far.

No pictures from the dinner (sorry!) or the bath (obviously…), but I can tell you what was on the actual menu — the Autumn dinner set:

• Three kinds of soups (Maitake Mushroom Porridge, Soba Noodle, and Miso) — each one an umami bomb.
• Various pieces of sashimi.
• “Assorted small bites” — too many to name. But the highlight was the chestnut — boiled for two days(!) so it becomes super-sweet.
• Grilled/smoked fish — each piece a flavor explosion.
• Steamed rice with pickles and chirashi sushi. And two refills of the same — because the bowl was just there!
• Four kinds of grapes for dessert — each one with a different, distinct flavor.

Reader, I was making faces like those actors on Japanese foodie shows. It was that good.

Now, the tub has just filled with hot spring water, so I’m going to jump in.

Tomorrow — rest day, finally. Expect a shorter note (I think?)

Good night!

— Chris